Dingo using a tool to get at treats above his head

This is a very cool video of a dingo using a tool to get to treats left high above his reach.  For many years, it was thought that only humans used tools, but there have been documented instances of other animals using them as well, including crows.  So that is no longer held to be a uniquely human ability.  I love this video, and also the growing recognition that animals other than humans have abilities such as this.

Growling is good!

As a follow up to this post, The Gift of the Growl, here is a link to another article that explains why we should not punish a dog for growling.  Too often, people think that a dog is doing something wrong by growling;  on the contrary, the dog is trying to communicate discomfort or fear with a situation.  It's not wrong to be afraid.  Leah Roberts does a great job of explaining what growling is about, and why we should be grateful that dogs growl.  She also talks briefly about some ways to help dogs become more comfortable with the situations that make them worried or frightened.

The Five Freedoms

Today's topic is the Five Freedoms, as drafted by the British Columbia Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.  I think these are the minimum standards of care for domesticated animals.  We must strive to provide all domesticated animals with good welfare, and this is a great way to spell out what that means.

The Five Freedoms are:
1.  Freedom from hunger and thirst.
2.  Freedom from pain, injury and disease.
3.  Freedom from distress.
4.  Freedom from discomfort.
5.  Freedom to express behaviours that promote well-being.

I think most people would agree on the first four;  but often people don't think about the final one.  Freedom to express behaviours that promote well-being is not as obvious, but it is as crucial to good welfare as all the others.

I always say things like, "Cows should be able to be cows."  By this, I mean that cattle should be kept under conditions that allow them to achieve this fifth freedom.  And it applies to every animal -- they should all be allowed to be themselves.  If they are a foraging type of animal, they should be kept in a way that allows them to forage.  If they need company to have good psychological welfare, then they should be kept with others of their kind or acceptable substitutes.  These are only two examples, but I think my point is clear.  Animals should be able to do the things that come naturally to their species, and as the humans in the equation, we are obliged to make sure they are able to do so.

This is not to say that dogs should be allowed to bark uncontrollably, or cats should be able to scratch your leather couch, et cetera.  What it means is that dogs naturally bark, and they should be able to bark sometimes.  We can teach them to bark once or twice, then to be quiet.  Cats naturally need to scratch, so we must provide them with acceptable opportunities to do so.  Part of this requires us to research our animals' physical and behavioural needs, so that we can ensure that we are providing them with appropriate ways to fulfill those needs.

We should also strive to provide these five freedoms for all animals that we have care and control of.  Whether it is wild animals in a place like the BC Wildlife Park or zoos, or exotic animals in sanctuaries, these Five Freedoms should be the benchmark for care.

Raising our criteria for rescue

Thought-provoking article by Debbie Jacobs.  Are we really doing a kindness to all the dogs that we "rescue" from their awful circumstances?  This article, as well as my experience with a local shelter, has prompted me many times to think about this very question.  It is hard to find appropriate placements for many dogs, especially fearful dogs.  We don't want to leave them in the terrible situations that many of them are found in, but is re-homing them really the best alternative (thinking of the question from the point of view of the dog, and really considering the question of good welfare)?  Is the kindest thing to humanely euthanize them, if we can't find a home that really understands their needs, and is fully committed to the onerous task of working with them for their entire lives?  It's a very hard question to answer, but I think everyone who is concerned with animal welfare must consider it.

I know that this issue is very controversial and expect to hear comments.  Please remember to be respectful;  I am only raising this question out of concern for the lifelong good welfare of animals.

I think Debbie is right, though;  we must raise our criteria of what a "successful" rescue is.

Comments, thoughts, opinions?  I think a debate on the subject is healthy and important.

Misreading Dogs by Nicole Wilde

Nicole Wilde has another great blog post, located here, about misreading dogs' attempts to communicate and being our own dog's advocate.

Breeding - Bulldogs

Can The Bulldog Be Saved? is a thought-provoking article about the future and fate of the bulldog as a breed.  There are also other breeds that are in a similar state.  I think that there are a number of breeds that have been bred beyond the point where they can be healthy (either in the sense of physical health, or the sense of behavioural health, or both).  By our design, we have created dogs that have trouble breathing, overheat too easily, have hereditary diseases, and can't mate or give birth, among other problems.  And temperamentally, there are many breeds that are known to be genetically fearful.  I hope that the bulldog, and the other dog breeds that we have designed into disaster, can be saved.

The importance of puppies staying in their litter until at least 8 weeks of age

Puppies prematurely separated from their litters can develop behavioural problems in adulthood.  It is important that puppies stay with their litters until at least 8 weeks of age -- they gain so much from the socialization that being with their dam and littermates provides.  It is also extremely beneficial that the breeder (whoever that may be) provide as much other socialization as possible -- exposing the puppies to the sights, sounds and experiences of the human world makes the puppies more resilient and behaviourally healthy.  Remember that the socialization window closes somewhere around 12 to 16 weeks, so there is a lot to do in a short amount of time.

Some of the behavioural problems that this study found in pups prematurely separated from their litters include:

• destructiveness,
• excessive barking, 
• possessiveness around food and/or toys, 
• attention seeking, 
• aggressiveness, 
• play biting, 
• fearfulness on walks, and 
• reactivity to noises. 

Of course, some of these issues will have had multiple causes, but it is significant that the study found that they were more far more frequently noted in pups that were separated from their litter prior to 8 weeks of age.

So staying with the dam and rest of the litter is important, as is proper socialization while they are together.  Then once you get your puppy, you've got to continue socializing!

Happy Thanksgiving to any Americans who stop by!

Here is a good, short article about how to keep your dogs happy this coming weekend, with all the hustle and bustle.  And here is another that talks about keeping your dog safe on holidays like Thanksgiving.  Hope you have a great weekend, whether you're in the US celebrating, or anywhere else!

Is there a genetic component to separation anxiety?

Nicole Wilde has an interesting blog post on this topic.  As she points out, there are many different causes that can contribute to separation anxiety, but I think there's something to the idea that separation anxiety could be genetic.  I think that anxiety of all types and fearfulness have a genetic component, in humans and in canines.  The causes are undeniably complex, but the role that genes play in the condition can't be ignored.

Is your dog smarter than a two-year old?

Alexandra Horowitz explores this question in her NY Times article, here.

Socialization - The Magic Pill for Puppies

Dr. Lisa Radosta has a great blog post about socialization for puppies here.

Tips for Colder Weather - Part Two

Here is Part Two of my series about keeping pets safe in colder weather.  Part Three will be a post about keeping pets safe around the holidays.

1.  Don't shave your pet in the winter.  They need their coats to stay warm!

2.  If your pet gets cold despite having a full coat (not uncommon), consider using a coat or sweater.  Not all animals like to wear clothing, so it's important to get them used to it gradually.  Put on the coat, give them a treat, and take it off.  Gradually increase the length of time your pet is wearing the coat, and always pair it with something particularly yummy, to create a good association -- putting on the coat predicts a delicious treat!

3.  Consider booties for your dog to protect his or her feet from snow and ice.  As with coats, make sure to gradually get your dog used to wearing them.

4.  Sick or older pets are particularly sensitive to the cold.  Make sure they are only outside when absolutely necessary, and provide them with warm, comfy places to sleep.

5.  De-icing and ice melting products can be toxic.  Be sure to keep them sealed and out of the reach of your pets.

6.  Vehicles can act as a refrigerator in cold weather by holding the cold inside.  Be very cautious about leaving your pets in your vehicle during cold weather.

7.  Pets can lose scent in snow and ice and get lost -- make sure your pet has identification, such as tags and a tattoo and/or microchip so that if he or she gets lost, it is easier for them to be reunited with you.

8.  If your pet is out in the cold and starts to shiver or shake, get them back into a warm sheltered place immediately.  If you suspect hypothermia, contact your vet immediately.

9.  Beware of frozen lakes and ponds -- they are not always frozen all the way through, and pets can fall through the ice.

10.  Arthritis is worse in cold and damp weather, so if you suspect your pet has arthritis, see your vet.  Take special care to handle a pet with arthritis (or suspected arthritis) gently, avoid icy walks, provide soft and warm bedding, and give any medications that your vet prescribes.

11.  Be careful of having portable heaters -- they can be a hazard.  Pets can burn themselves or knock the heaters over, risking a fire.

12.  Dogs should not be riding unsecured in the backs of pickup trucks at the best of times -- it is unsafe and is often contrary to local laws.  In colder weather, it is particularly dangerous, due to the possibility of wind chill and the slippery conditions in the bed of the truck.  And think about how you would feel, standing on cold metal in the cold!

Keep your pets safe and warm and healthy during the colder weather;  they are part of the family!

Socialization - can my dog meet yours?

Socialization is about so much more than your dog getting to meet other dogs.  That's part of it, but the bigger picture is that socialization is about getting your pup comfortable with all the sights, sounds, and experiences of the human world in which we expect that pup to live.

I could write a novel about socialization (just ask the folks in my puppy classes!), and I will -- just not today.  I did want to pass along a great article about socialization, though.  Jennifer Shryock talks about some of the specifics to consider when you are introducing your dog (especially your puppy) to other dogs.  Your pup does not need to meet every single other dog they ever encounter -- this can be a recipe for disaster, in fact.  Thoughtful introductions to other dogs and pups that you know (medically and behaviourally) make for good socialization.

It is critically important that all socialization experiences (whether your dog is meeting another dog, or a new person, or walking across a grate on the sidewalk, or hearing thunder for the first time, etc.) be positive.  Think carefully about how you introduce your dog or pup to new experiences, and your dog will benefit enormously.

Body language and knowing your own dog

Here is a good blog post by Stacy Braslau-Schneck about body language in dogs.  One point she makes that I think is worth repeating and emphasizing is that it is so important to know your own dog.  That is, know how your dog normally carries his or her ears and tail, what a relaxed posture looks like, et cetera.  By becoming familiar with how your dog looks when comfortable and relaxed, you can learn to read the signs that your dog gives to say that he or she is becoming apprehensive or stressed.  When you see changes from that relaxed and comfortable state, you can ask yourself what is going on in the environment that might be bothering your dog, and look for ways to make him or her feel better.

Tips for Colder Weather - Part One

It's that time of year when the weather starts to get colder, the snow may be starting to fall, and our animals need us to make sure they are safe.  Here is the first part of a series of posts with some tips for the colder weather that seems to have already arrived!

1.  Dogs and cats belong indoors with the family, in my opinion.  This is true all year, but especially during colder weather.  Although they have fur coats, most dogs and cats are not able to keep themselves at a comfortable and safe temperature when left out in the elements.  If it's too cold out for you to be comfortable outside without a big coat, don't leave your pets outside!

2.  Pets need more calories in the winter to ward off the cold.  Increase your pet's food ration accordingly, especially if your pet engages in a lot of outdoor activities.

3.  Pets also need access to fresh and unfrozen water, which can be a challenge this time of year.  Check your pet's water dish twice a day to make sure that the water isn't frozen.  And if you must have your pets outside (which I don't recommend), a heated water dish is a must.

4.  If there is deep snow (and deep is defined by your dog's size), consider shoveling out a potty area for your dog to use.  Think of how awful it would be to have to potty in the snow up to your...ahem...potty parts.  :)

5.  Antifreeze is a chemical that tastes sweet to animals, so be sure that there are no puddles or drops of it around your driveway or garage.  They are likely to ingest it, and this can be fatal.

6.  The salt and other chemicals that are used on our roads can be dangerous to pets.  At the very least, they can irritate the pads of their feet;  at worst, they can lick it off, which can cause digestive upset (or even worse).

7.  Cats and wildlife often will take refuge in and around warm engines.  If you keep your vehicle outside, make sure you bang on the hood before starting it, to make sure there are no animals trying to keep warm inside.

8.  Puppies are particularly vulnerable to the cold, and they might not be able to relieve themselves outdoors in the winter.  Make sure your pups (or kittens) are only outside with you, so you can monitor how they are coping with the cold and the weather conditions.  And if your pup doesn't tolerate the cold or the weather conditions, consider potty training indoors until spring.

9.  Remember that tile and uncarpeted areas can get quite cold, as can basements.  Help your pet out by providing a warm place to sleep -- blankets and beds are very cozy.  Also make sure that they are out of the way of drafts.

10.  If your dog has to spend time outside, make sure he or she has proper shelter from the weather and the cold.  You can do this by getting a dog house that is big enough to stand up in, and that allows the dog to stretch out and turn around.  You want the house to be the proper size so that the body heat of the dog will be retained in the structure, so don't get one that is too oversized.  Dog houses should have a wind flap on the door and non-porous bedding such as straw to help them keep warm.  But remember that dogs are social animals and are much happier in the house with the family!

I will post some further tips for the season in a couple of days.  Yes, really, I will!  Keep your pets safe this winter, and remember that if it's too cold for you, it's too cold for your pets.

Halloween hints and tips

Halloween is a fun human holiday, but it can be scary and dangerous for pets.  Here are some things to be aware of as All Hallow's Eve draws near.

Costumes are not for most pets.  Some pets are real hams and enjoy being dressed up, but most animals are much happier "naked".  If your pet is happy to wear a costume, make sure that it doesn't restrict normal movements, breathing or vision.  Your pet should be able to do all the things he or she normally can do, such as barking, panting, meowing and drinking.  Also make sure that there are no dangling bits that can be chewed off, because the last thing you want is to have to take your pet in for surgery to remove an intestinal blockage!

Another note on costumes ... some pets are nervous of people who are in costume, so remember that if your dog seems afraid or concerned, let them have the space they need.

I am a huge fan of using treats to train pets, but Halloween treats are at best unhealthy and at worst fatal.  Chocolate is toxic to cats and dogs.  Some treats may contain xylitol, which is also toxic to dogs -- it is often found in sugar-free candies.

Halloween decorations can also be problematic ... the cobwebby stuff that many people use can cause life-threatening digestive conditions if swallowed.  As can corn cobs!  A friend of mine lost one of her dogs after she ate a corn cob during barbeque season, so take care with them, too.

Electrical cords and candles can also pose a danger.

Your pet will likely be happier to be put away for the night -- the chaos of the doorbell ringing, costumed invaders appearing, and fireworks can all be very stressful for pets.  Find a quiet contained place where your pet can enjoy a meaty bone or stuffed Kong, and perhaps consider playing the radio or the television to mask the noise of the night.

Many shelters are overwhelmed with missing pets around Halloween -- panic can cause even the most well-trained and bonded animals to flee.  Make sure your pets all have identification that will make it easier for them to be reunited with you.  And try to make sure that your pet is securely confined;  leaving pets outside on Halloween is not a good idea!  If your pet is not secured in another room, be super cautious that he or she doesn't dart outside when you're opening the door to give out treats.  Having a baby gate to block the front door is a good idea, as is putting your dog on a leash and attaching it to something solid.

Remember that Halloween is a human holiday, not an animal one, and keep your pets safe this weekend!  Have fun, and stay safe!

Other resources:
Here is the ASPCA's Halloween tip sheet.
Tips from the veterinary medicine section of about.com.

He's just scared, but he would never bite...

http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/hes-just-scaredbut-he-would-never-bite

10 Life-Threatening Behaviour Myths in Dogs

This is a fantastic article by Valerie V. Tynes (that can be handed out to clients) about behaviour myths in dogs.  Some of these myths literally cost dogs their lives;  they certainly impact the quality of life of many, many others.  How many of these myths do you believe?  Check out the article, and learn what the truth is!

The Gift of the Growl

Here is a wonderful article by Pat Miller that explains why we should never punish a dog for growling.  The growl is a gift;  it is information for us on what the dog is feeling.  She also talks about what to do if your dog growls at something.  This information is so important!  If a dog is punished for growling, you will eventually have a dog that bites without any warning whatsoever, and that is much more dangerous than a growling dog.

Free house training guide from Dr. Sophia Yin

As you have noticed, I think Dr. Sophia Yin is fabulous.  She has just released one of the chapters of her upcoming book, Perfect Puppy in 7 Days;  it deals with how to house train a puppy.  This guide to potty training is free, and excellent!  You have to download it, and you can't print it, but it's still a fantastic resource.

Bite prevention

So, it's been forever since I posted, and I apologize.

It's the end of Bite Prevention Week, so I thought I'd share some related resources.

This is the first part of a series on meeting a new dog, and how to judge the body language that you see.  This article talks about the "green light", or go ahead, signals that tell you that a dog wants to be greeted by you.  Here is the second part, which talks about "red light", or signals that should tell you to stop and be careful;  this dog probably doesn't want you to greet him/her.  Here is the third part, which talks about some more red light signals.  I really like that the author (Casey Lomonaco) talks about how we need to ask permission twice before we meet a new dog:  first from the owner/guardian, and second from the dog.  If we see red light signals, that is the dog's way of telling us to back off.  The final part of this series talks about how to greet a new dog, assuming you get the green light!

Dr. Sophia Yin also has some great bite prevention resources at her website.  These resources are all free, and include a PSA (public service announcement), a poster called The Body Language of Fear in Dogs, an article about how dogs bite when people greet them inappropriately, a poster of how to greet dogs appropriately, and some other articles about bite prevention.

There is also the classic site, doggonesafe.com, which is dedicated to bite prevention and teaching children how to be safe around dogs.

There are a ton of other resources out there on preventing dog bites, how to greet dogs appropriately and safely, and how to read dog body language.  I would really encourage everyone to learn everything you can;  dogs don't really bite "out of the blue", there are almost always signs that the dog is uncomfortable and wanting you to leave him/her alone.

A Fearful Dog Speaks

A great post by Kevin Myers about some things to consider when dealing with a fearful dog.  I suspect most people wind up with fearful dogs without knowing in advance what they are getting themselves into, or even that the dog in question is fearful.  Kevin Myers really touches on some of the really important things to remember when working with a fearful dog.

We've seen quite a few fearful dogs lately at the training centre.  Patience, as Kevin points out, is an absolute requirement.  Fearful dogs, even more so than dogs generally, really benefit from routine.  And a dog's fears are real for them, just like my fears are real for me.  Anybody have a phobia of spiders, for instance?  :)

Fear isn't necessarily rooted in a bad experience, either.  I have an intense fear of mice, but nothing bad has ever happened to me involving a mouse.  No attacks by crazed mice, no traumatic incident of any sort.  I'm just terrified of them.  So if a dog is afraid of men, or people in hats, or of the sound of thunder, for instance, it doesn't mean that dog has had a bad experience with men, or people in hats, or thunder.  It might just be that the dog is afraid.

Of course, it might also be the case that the dog in question HAS had a bad experience with the object of it's fear.  But quite often, we'll never know whether this is the case or not.  And the way to deal with the fear is the same whether you know where it came from or not.

Kevin refers readers to Debbie Jacobs' fabulous website, www.fearfuldogs.com.  I second that advice;  Debbie's website is the place to start if you know a fearful dog.

Should we hug or kiss our dogs?

Another great article by Dr. Sophia Yin, this one about a book called "Smooch Your Pooch".  It is NOT advisable for anyone, kid or adult, to hug or kiss a dog -- quite often, this is how a dog bite arises.  This article talks about some great alternative ways to show affection to our dogs (such as trick training, playing fetch and going for a supervised walk), and how to read whether a dog is enjoying our physical affection or not.

Do dogs understand what the word "no" means?

A great article that explores the question of whether dogs understand our words, particularly "no".

Dogs and young families

A great article about deciding whether (or not) to get a dog when you have a young family.

Dogs and fear

In this month's BARK magazine, there is a wonderful article by Karen B. London about dogs and fear:  "Cautious Canines: Understanding and Helping Fearful Dogs".  The article isn't online (at least not yet), but I'd really encourage anyone who knows a shy, timid or fearful dog to read the article.   It's a great overview of dogs and fearfulness.

Here is another great article (by the wonderful Dr. Patricia McConnell) about reducing fear in dogs.  As she points out, "A gentle hand or a tasty treat doesn’t reinforce fear, it reduces it."  

My very favourite resource on dogs and fear is Debbie Jacobs' fantastic website, www.fearfuldogs.com.   This is THE place to start if you know a dog that you would describe as shy, timid, cautious, or fearful.  This site will help anyone who has or works with a dog like this.

Finally, I'd also like to link to a fabulous Yahoo group Shy-k9s.  The group description reads, "The shy-k9s mailing list is for the discussion of shy, fearful and/or fear-aggressive dogs and positive solutions to their problems."  Another great resource and source of support for people who have fearful dogs in their lives.

Punishment: A Cultural Phenomenon

I may be opening a can of worms here...   Here is an interesting article about punishment and our society.  "Punishment is a completely ineffective way to change anyone’s behavior", whether human or canine.

Children hugging dogs

This is a great article on children hugging dogs, and why it's not a good idea.

Getting the most out of puppy class

Wow, it's been far too long since I've even thought about this blog!  My apologies -- sometimes life gets away from me.

I just came across this great article on how to get the most out of puppy classes.  Perhaps it should be handed out at registration!